Leather, Fur, Feathers by Claire Shaeffer

Author:Claire Shaeffer
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: F+W Media

STITCHING TIPS

Make a test seam with a new needle. Adjust the tension as needed and use a shim when sewing over uneven layers. When stitching thick skins, reduce the presser-foot pressure. Experiment with stitching the shearling so the skin sides are together and the wool sides are together.

Use a roller foot or wrap the toes of an all-purpose zigzag foot with transparent tape to avoid snagging the wool.

SEAMS

Most seams can be basted with large paper clips or quilting clothespins. A few, such as leather lapped seams, may have to be pinned. Use very fine pins placed in the seam allowance.

Decorative seams, such as nonwoven lapped, slot, and laced, are particularly attractive on shearling because the fake fur peeks out at the fabric edge, highlighting the novelty of the material.

Use strap, topstitched plain, and welt seams for flat, inconspicuous seaming.

Trim wrong-side-out seams to 1⁄4" (6mm) and let them protrude au naturel or topstitch them open.

To make leather lapped seams, trim away the overlap. Lap, matching the edge of the overlap to the seamline on the underlap, then edgestitch. Topstitch again 3⁄8" (1cm) away.

Trim and grade other seam allowances as needed to reduce bulk.

When trimming shearling, Kathryn Brenne uses electric hair clippers. Work carefully to avoid trimming more than you want.

To reduce bulk on topstitched and welt seams, trim away the wool in the seam allowances before topstitching.

When assembling a design with fur seams, use a wide zigzag (width 4, length 2) with a loose tension and less presser-foot pressure so the seam can be flattened after it is stitched.

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